A Smart? Aquarium in Taiwan

Taipei
Volume 900 Liters
Dimensions 132cm x 90cm x 60cm
Make DeepMost
Model type 1
Timeline
External links

Photos

Measurements

Temperature
pH
339
ORP
36
Salinity
440
Calcium
7.9
Alkalinity
Magnesium
Phosphate
380
Potassium
Nitrate

Inhabitants

14 Fish

六線龍 six line wrase
2 尖嘴紅格 Longnose Hawkfish
6 日落海金魚 Pseudanthias parvirostris
黃三角 Yellow triangle
Blue Tang 藍豬 Paracanthurus hepatus

46 Corals

不知名 what?
公主海葵 Heteractis magnifica Anemone
圓刷 Acropora ethereal
塔塔 Montipora digitata
娜娜 Acropora nana
榔頭 Euphyllia ancora
橘子 Montipora setosa
石松 Acropora selago
紅海珊 Acropora hyacinthus
羅莎 Acropora rosaria
藍鶲 Acropora azurea
金牛角 Acropora anthocercis
4 魚鱗 Acropora Milliepora Acropora Milliepora
Acropora Cerealis Acropora Cerealis
Acropora borealis Acropora borealis
P. Rim Cap 包心菜 Monodactylus Argenteus
Purple Barney Acropora Purple Barney Acropora
RR 金鋼狼 Wolverine RR Wolverine

13 Invertebrate

史瑞克 海牛 Aplysia Californica
2 白襪蝦 Cardinal Shrimp
2 紅海六腳海星 Mediterranean Red Sea Star
2 蕩皮參 Holothuria leucospiolota
3 馬蹄鐘螺 Tectus niloticus maximus
2 Anemone Crab 海葵蟹 Neopetrolisthes ohshimai

Equipment

黃色 - Nitrate and Phospate needs to be low
綠色 - Iron - overdose tends to cause darkening of tissues (KZ Iron)
藍和一些紫 - require Potassium Iodide (KZ PIF)
紅,粉紅和一些紫 - require Potassium (not potassium iodide)
紫 - require Potassium Iodide/Potassium
In Detail:
黃色
Highly dependent on Nitrate and PO4 levels. Of course all SPS colors are highly dependent on lack of N and P so I wanted to start with probably the easiest color to get, yellow. Yellows are sort of you baseline; yellows will tell you a lot about what is going on in your tank, what is needed and what is overdosed. Nitrate and/or PO4 reduction is most important, either through technical means such as nitrate/phosphate reducers or biologically through DSB, Carbon dosing and/or water changes and fuges. Basically, if you want to do SPS, I would suggest starting with an acropora that is yellow. If you can get it to say yellow for several months, you should be ready for something else.

綠色
Greens would be the next easiest color to tweak. Most green coloration can be achieved through the addition of an Iron Concentrate (Kents is what I use, however Iron is Iron). You must be very careful with Iron because it is also an Algae accelerator; this is why it is so important for you to get your yellows colors first (your N and P will be lowered).
Additionally, I use my yellows as indicators for my greens and blues. You?ll notice a deficiancy if your greens are brown color or they are paling in color. I start off by dosing Iron at about 1 drop per 50 usg twice a week and take note of what happens, color changes, Algae growth, until my yellow acroporas display a green shimmer (it won?t be a solid green but a shimmer of a green/yellow).
Please note, a sign of overdosing is a darkening of tissue, when this happens you have added too much iron or too much iron is being added. Another sign of overdosing is Algae growth, stop immediately and possibly do a water change if necessary. Like everything else reef, go slowly.
藍和一些紫
This is mainly for blues but I have found is can also have an effect on purples. The supplement for this is Potassium Iodide Concentrate or Lugol?s solution, ESV Potassium Iodide Concentrate will also work; don?t just get something that says Potassium because that is a little different. Dosing should be done when blue colors become less intense. Again, using yellow corals as indicators, stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer.
紅,粉紅和一些紫
Primarily for coloring reds and pinks in Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys and Seriatoporas. The supplement is Potassium (not potassium iodide). If you are using a high potassium salt mix such as Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro and you are doing regular water changes, you are more than likely not going to need to supplement this much.
For dosing you can use your monitporas, especially caps as indicators. Supplementing is required when Montiporas display slower growth and appear washed out to grey appearance. Indicators on Stys and Pocs are when they look like they have been exposed to air. Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light. Other indicators of potassium deficiency is when the pinks turn into a light brown and when acroporas loose their color and get lighter and pale. A major potassium deficiency is seen when tissue is lost, mostly starting from the base opposed to spotting (patchy look). And overdose can lead to tip burning so don?t mistake tip burn for new growth. Tips burns will be white with no polyps.

Probably one of the hardest coloration of all acroporas from my experience since it is a combination of several variables.
First and foremost is water clarity, which means Carbon and/or filter socks. I have also had good result from biological filters such as using cryptic zones, which produce seasquirts, sponges and other filter feeding animals. Zeo Sponge Power, which can be used in any system, feeds sponges. Sponges are great because they can filter a mass amount of water for better water clarity.
From what I have noted, increased water clarify will first effect SPS tips but not the complete base. I have seen nana and valida with really nice purple tips but brown/tan/white bases. I have seen the same nana and valida in another?s tanks, which met all other parameters with a full purple from base to tip.
Second being lighting. From my observations of my own tank and others, purples seem to love 420-440nm range light spectrum, those found in actinics and 20K halides. Some of the best purples I have seen are in tanks that have 440nm blue actinics (ATI Blue+, Giessman Actinic) or 20K Halides (Radium, XM 20K).
Third, supplements such as Iodide and Potassium (see blues and Reds/Pinks). Again, make sure your greens are green and yellows are yellow. Your blue should be bright with depth. Iodide will also help if you have tip burn.
These are just my observations through testing and I am sure in the future other factors will be seen and added. Please feel free to comment with your own observations, data is very important to moving forward.
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  • 綠眼龍 Green Eye Dragon
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  • 奧勒崗 Acropora Tortuosa
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  • bird's nest 雙色鳥巢
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Feeding See more

KZ Coral Vitalizer

On average you perform a 10% water change every 11 days.

0% total water change in October.

0 activities in the last year

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Acknowledgements

水中的元素一般能耳熟人想的不外乎是,鈣、鎂、鍶、鉬、鐵
其實還有很多微量元素與珊瑚的生長密切相關


扮演著各種媒介的角色(媒人婆),例如:
控制甲殼生物(蝦、螃蟹、微生物)、珊瑚對於鈣的利用
缺鎂時,就算有很多鈣生物也無法利用
鈣就像古時候的男女,而鎂就像媒人婆,沒有媒人婆就無法結婚(無法鈣沈澱製造骨架)
所以鎂一定要保持在一定濃度


軟體的骨頭、甲殼生物的殼,硬管蟲的殼等等,都是來自於鈣
與鎂一樣,空有媒人婆(鎂)但是沒有男女的話也是白搭,無法結婚
鈣太低也無法使用,請把鈣想成精蟲,精蟲量太少怎麼造人(骨)?
所以請務必維持鈣含量

一般來說當鈣有消耗時,補充鈣的時候也請注意鎂含量
PS:鈣與鎂的補充請勿同時進行,最好相隔半天~一天


如同人用的優碘,能夠殺菌、復育傷口、預防細菌感染
剛購買的珊瑚入缸前可以浸泡碘液,這動作就像魚隻做淡水浴一樣,能殺菌並減少軟體緊迫
缸子缺乏碘時軟體比較容易受細菌感染,或許有人沒添加不也是沒事?
對沒錯、那為何要添加?
碘會因為蛋白的氣化而消失、添加的目的在於當缸子水質有異變時,有碘的話軟體所能忍受的能力會比較大
添加碘這動作就像我們買保險一樣、沒發生事情可有可無、但發生意外的話至少有保險可以撐腰
如缸子有受傷的珊瑚、更應該確保缸子裡有碘


珊瑚在成長時需要鍶來幫助與加速鈣(骨頭)形成
鍶的角色有點類似禮堂、有媒人婆與一對新人後還需要禮堂來完成整個婚禮


硝化菌會利用到、幫助硝化菌脫氮
對於珊瑚來說,鉬可以預防共肉脫離、剝落,促進細胞(共肉)新陳代謝與增長
鉬對於共生藻、藻類、巨藻的生存扮演這重要角色
如以鈣藻來說、鈣藻邊緣白化時,添加鉬後可以發現白化的地方會慢慢變粉紅、原本呈紅色的鈣藻會變深紅色
以使方法、我們可以依鈣藻的表現來判斷鉬的含量
PS:有些軟體會有共肉剝離、脫離骨架,排除水受污染的話與鍶、鉬脫離不了關係


還原氧化作用所需必要元素、與細胞色素相關
共生藻、褐藻、鈣藻等等所必須元素、添加鐵可以幫助共生藻更加強壯與健康
共生藻變健康了,軟體也能獲得更多共生藻所帶來的好處(光合作用)
但添加過多相對的低等藻也會增多

氯化物、鈉、鉀
主要控制滲透壓、控制軟體表面粘膜的酸鹼值(類似肌膚有人偏酸有人偏鹼)
軟體的共肉神經傳導與製造消化液(形同胃液)時所需元素
其中,酸鹼值似乎可以控制共生藻生存環境?因此有部分玩家會以鉀來洗顏色
PS:滲透壓(軟體膨脹與縮小)
因為軟體滲透壓與鈉、鉀有關、因此不免想到奶嘴不奶不知與鈉鉀有無關係?


新陳代謝葡萄糖時所需元素
對於軟體內細胞有著保護作用並刺激免疫,簡單說軟體的免疫作用與系統需要硒來參與
就像電器需要電(硒)、否則無法開啟使用


軟體分裂、增長共肉時需要鋅來輔助


促進共生藻、藻類行光合作用
共肉與骨架的連結也與錳有關


幫助軟體骨骼發長、巨藻生長時所需必要元素


生物的氧氣傳輸、光合作用後二氧化碳與氧氣傳導所需元素

硅(ㄏㄨㄛˋ)
細胞膜生長主要元素,一般不會缺乏不需擔心
硅過多相對的低等藻也會增多
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  • 紅海六腳海星
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  • 史瑞克 海牛
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